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When curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. Yet, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the family totally surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.